Scolt Head Island Sea Paddle
Published: June 2006 | Written by Elaine Sherrifs
The Eastern Region weekend at Burnham Deepdale saw about 30 people gather for a weekend of paddling on the estuaries and coast of North Norfolk. Camping was at either Deepdale campsite (for those who wanted a bit of luxury, e.g. hot showers) or at Marsh Barn and field (for those who don’t mind rough it).
The paddles choices for Saturday 17th June were Blakeney Point to see the seals or Scolt Head Island or 4* sea kayak training. I chose the Scolt Head Island trip. We had to set off at 8am from the campsite to be sure to catch the tide at Burnham Overy Staithe. We paddled off from the Staithe about 2 hours before high tide and set off in clockwise, westerly direction. The plan was to paddle down Norton Creek on the landward side of Scolt Head Island and turning onto the sea at Brancaster to return along the sea in an eastward direction, cross the sandbar and paddle back into Burnham Overy Staithe early afternoon just before low tide.
However, as usual, the best laid plans come to grief! Alastair Randall, our guide who had driven up to Norfolk all the way from Cornwall the day before. He teaches outdoor pursuits at Duchy College. He had not done this paddle before. Even with the aid of maritime charts and OS maps we managed to head up a dead end creek instead of Norton Creek and out to sea. So after about an hour we found ourselves high and dry in a creek. It had started to feel wrong when the water began running against us. We were actually on Scolt Head Island – up the proverbial creek, though with paddles and no water; how did we make this mistake? I think we were too busy talking and getting to know each other to realize we had the wrong channel and it was not clear at high water in which direction Norton Creek ran. So, Alastair’s friend and paddling buddy Ian decided to scout around above the creek. He found we were just a few hundred yards from the sea. So we hauled our kayaks over the dunes to the sea and we were thus on the seaward side of Scolt Head Island about an hour and a half before we had planned to be there!
We decided to paddle anti-clockwise towards Brancaster and so we set off on a beautiful, calm sea under a brilliant blue sky and hot sun. Scolt Head Island stretched out on one side, sand dunes, marram grass and total emptiness. On the other miles and miles of blue sea with the lightest of swells. It felt more like paddling off the coast of Africa than Norfolk! We rounded the western point of Scolt Head Island and paddled across a bit of tidal race to the wreck of a freighter marked by a metal structure topped with red warning balls. Then we headed towards the beach at Brancaster to have lunch. Much of the beach was fenced off as a Tern Sanctuary. After lunch we headed back along Norton Creek towards Burnham Overy Staithe.
Of course, our error had cost us the advantage of paddling with the tide and wind so we found ourselves with both tide and wind against us, working hard to reach Burnham Overy Staithe. It seemed a very long paddle and my arms became like lead. Fortunately Alastair had some incredibly lightweight paddles which he kindly lent me for the last 30 minutes and that certainly helped. As we approached the Staithe the water was very shallow and the local ferryman helped show us the best way back, dodging the sandbanks. When we landed the ice cream van had showed up so we treated ourselves to an ice cream (some to 2!) and a lie on the grassy bank overlooking Scolt Head Island. It was a good day out, but 4-5 hours of paddling was a long haul, especially against the tide. I would love to try paddling around the island again, but next time I’ll be sure to go the right way round.
After this we met back at the campsite and Gavin and Roz recounted the wonderful trip they had to Blakeney Point with Dave and Sarah to see the seals. We enjoyed a WVVC special BBQ and beers in the evening and since it was Roz’s birthday we surprised her with a cake and candles. The next day told another story – over to Roz for that one!